How To: Motorcycle Alarm Install
To some, motorcycles are just really expensive toys; to others they're a main mode of transportation and a cherished pride and joy. Whatever it is to you, it's probably a good idea to make sure it's protected. Motorcycle theft rates increased over 135% in the last five years, but the saddest part is that only around 30% of the thefts are recovered. In 2005, approximately 70,600 motorcycles were stolen in the US.* Hopefully one of those was not yours.
However, all is not lost. Did you know you can actually install an alarm system on your motorcycle that offers similar protection to that of a car alarm? Shock sensors, tilt sensors, siren, starter kill - all of these things can help prevent the theft of your bike. It may also help reduce your insurance rate.
So what's involved and how difficult is it? The guys from the Snake Pit hooked us up with a tutorial on how to install an alarm on your bike. Follow the jump to check out the details and pics.
*Source: WebBikeWorld.com
By: The Snake Pit Staff
Motorcycle alarm systems are sometimes installed as standard (or optional) equipment on a few bikes, but the majority of bikes have no protection other than maybe a steering lock.
Some newer bikes coming to market come with computer chips built into the key that contain RFID technology, a feature commonly found in modern automobile keys. However, this only prevents someone from starting the motor, they could still simply pick up the bike or throw it on a trailer and make off with it. Motorcycles have a number of mechanical and electrical similarities with cars and trucks, however there are still a number of major differences that need to be considered when installing a security system.
What to consider
First and foremost you have to consider the environment any added electrical components would have to endure once installed. All factory electronics are equipped to handle this environment and control modules, relays and switches are completely sealed and reinforced. In most cases this is not the case with most automotive security systems, which is why it's important to choose an alarm designed for a motorcycle. Unlike a car or truck a motorcycle offers no protection from the elements. Water, rain, heat, wind, vibration and moving parts are major factors when choosing a location for your motorcycle's security components.
Step 1: Choosing the security system
The level of security is the number one question you have to ask yourself when shopping for a security system. Many different varieties are available: from run-of-the-mill noise makers to something like the Directed Electronics Merlin 3000 with Auto Immobilizer, self learning tilt / motion sensor, multiple inputs and cut-off circuits, switches, and a large list other unique features. (Shameless plug)
What To Look For
It all starts with the actual alarm system. Is it made for motorcycles? Remember, if the system was designed for bikes, the control module (brain) will be considerably smaller than your standard automobile security system. This will be a major advantage since it gives you more options when it’s time to install it and placement becomes an issue.
Protection From the Elements
Weather is another factor when choosing a system. Is the system waterproof? Since the motorcycle is exposed to the elements, the components might get wet, splashed on or rained on. If your alarm is not waterproof (or splash proof) you can kiss your alarm system good bye the first time it rains or the next time
you wash your motorcycle. To make matters worse, in some cases the alarm may not be the only electrical component that can be damaged. A short circuit in the alarm can feed back into the motorcycle's electrical system as well.
Security Features
The next item to consider is the alarm's feature list. Starter kill and fuel cut-off are the most common interruption circuits used today. When the system is armed, these features will prevent the bike from starting by cutting off the fuel delivery or crank signal. When installed correctly they can be a very effective weapon against thieves attempting to hotwire your bike, however the alarm is not just limited to starter or ignition cut off. There are a number of options you can use to prevent the bike from being stolen such as interfacing with the kick stand sensor, the bike’s shut-off switch, or installing a hidden kill switch.
Sirens: Sirens come in all shapes and sizes, but for a motorcycle, the smallest possible siren is the best choice since space is at a premium. Many of today’s security systems feature a small external mini sirens that can produce up to 125dB. Another somewhat common design features a siren built into the "brain". Mini Piezo sirens also work very well. Designed primarily as interior sirens for cars, piezos features an extremely high-pitched 120dB output. I suggest using a combination of siren and horn output (if equipped), honking the motorcycles horn and sounding the siren simultaneously when the system is triggered.
Sensors: Sensors are devices that can detect different types of attempts to tamper with a vehicle and send a trigger signal to the security CPU.
- Motion Sensors do exactly as their name implies: sense motion of the bike, usually rocking back and forth.
- Impact or shock sensors detect sharp impacts to the bike.
- Field disturbance sensors, also known as radar sensors, they extend an invisible radio signal field around the motorcycle. When an object has entered the set perimeter the sensor will detect movement and will send a trigger signal to the security CPU.
- Tilt Sensors detect attempts to lift up the bike in order to raise the kickstand. Most will automatically calibrate themselves when the security system is armed and will monitor for a change of inclination from that calibration.
- Pressure Sensors detect a change in weight on the motorcycle seat.
- Closed Loop Sensors trigger when a connection is broken. This trigger can be used for the kickstand sensor, helmet protection or a chain/cable used to lock up the motorcycle.
If you take a look at our project below, you can see there isn’t very much room for product placement without significant disassembly of the motorcycle’s fairings.
Step 2: Tear down
Before you begin, it's necessary to disassemble certain areas of the motorcycle. Like most motorcycles you'll find the battery right under the front seat. Since this is where your main source of power will be located this is our starting point.
To remove the seat, you'll have to pull back on the rear section of the seat until you have enough clearance to get to the bolt. Be very careful when unbolting the seat, the Allen wrench can pinch the seat material and water will eventually get into cushion causing the seat foam to decay. Once the seat is unbolted simply lift the rear section up and the front section of the seat will slide right out of its bracket.
Even after the seat has been removed, you can see there is very little room for any security components. They'll need to be installed in some other locations.
If you take a look under the seat you will find the battery, the starter relay, and your ignition wires.
Removing the seat exposes the attachment screws for the rear section of the bike. Be very careful when removing these screws since most of these are made of plastic, making it very easy to strip the screw heads.
By removing the attachment bolts to the fuel tank you can prop up the tank without disconnecting any fuel lines or plugs. This will prevent any problems with the factory fuel or electrical system since nothing has been disconnected.
Also, keep track of bolts and panels to make sure they don't get scratched while working on the vehicle. It's a good idea to have some type of cart, table, or rack to store them while working on the vehicle.
Step 3: Component Locations:
Component location is one of the most important decisions you can make for your installation. Proper location will reflect not only the overall security of the vehicle, but the longevity of the install as well. If the siren is located in a place that is easily accessible to the thief, then the system is vulnerable. Things like engine heat should also be considered. Placing a sensor or the control module too close will damage the system and may even cause electrical damage to the motorcycle's factory electrical system.
Water and vibration are also factors to consider. There are a number of manufacturers that offer security systems specifically designed for motorcycles and ATV’s. These systems feature waterproof alarm brain modules and sensors which prolong the life of the system as well as give the installer more options on placement. Other features as mentioned earlier are built-in sensors or sirens, closed loop sensors, tilt sensors, and micro size LED’s
Before you start your installation, layout all the components on a table. This will help you get a better idea of what you’ll be installing. Start with the biggest components (the alarm brain and siren are usually the largest components) and test fit them in different locations around the bike. Remember to keep your eyes open for the problem areas mentioned earlier.
Step 4: Wiring
Before you begin it is very important that you read the install guide as well as the owner’s manual. Most security systems will have a number of inputs and outputs that are normally open or normally closed. If a circuit such as starter kill were wired incorrectly there’s a chance the security cut-off switch will work backwards or not at all.
Before you jump in you will need a plan of attack. For example, if you have your parking light wires and siren wire all going in the same direction you can route them together then split them off once they reach their destination. Eliminating redundancy is key to a speedy install. Another suggestion is to wrap the wires in electrical tape or flex loom before routing your wires. This give your install an OE appearance and will make it harder for a thief to differentiate your wiring.
Within the small real estate of a motorcycle, there are more moving parts per square inch to work around, so it can be difficult to route your wiring. A good suggestion would be to follow the factory wiring since the manufacturer has already figured this out for you. Take special care when routing multiple wires since they will add bulk to the overall area. If you're not careful, panels, seats, and fairings may not fit back together correctly.
It's very important that you test each circuit before making a connection. There are several methods for wiring connections, but soldering your connections is the most dependable method considering the hostile environment the connections will have to endure. Cover the connection/splice with heat shrink tubing or electrical tape to insulate and protect your connections. If electrical tape is your connection of choice, I highly recommend fastening a zip tie around the connection to amke sure the tape doesn't separate over time.
Points to remember
When making your power and ground connections do not get them directly from the battery posts. Follow the battery cables and make your connections 6-8 inches from the battery. This will prevent the system from
interfering with maintenance and will keep the thief guessing. Another suggestion for added security is attaching a shock sensor to the ignition harness below the key cylinder. Most bikes do not have an immobilizer and can be hot-wired fairly easily. Adding a shock sensor will instantly trigger the system the moment someone
grabs the wire harness.
LED location
Step 5: Reassembly and Testing
Once all of the connections have been made and all modules are installed, it's time to program the control module. Reading the owners and isntall manual will give you an idea to the different programming options. Determine what programming options you want to use before beginning your install. Options can include passive or active arming, turning arm/disarm chirps on or off, and selectable siren tones. Other programming options are simply necessary for the system to function correctly.
After programming, any adjustable sensors should be adjusted and thoroughly tested. If a sensor doesnt' seem to function correctly, check the mounting location and position. Always refer to the installation guide for proper mounting instructions.
Once the sensors are adjusted and working properly, the complete system should be tested, running through every possible trigger and sensor. Test the system both before final reassembly and after. Testing before reassembly will keep you from tearing the bike down again to find the faulty sensor or connection. Once full functionality is confirmed, reassemble the bike and retest the system.
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